Via degli Dei

The Via degli Dei begins dramatically, pulling you out of Bologna's medieval centre and up into the first Apennine foothills in a single day. Leave through Porta Saragozza and follow the celebrated portico of San Luca — 666 arches climbing 3.8km to the hilltop sanctuary — for an iconic opening stretch that doubles as a final farewell to the city.

Beyond the sanctuary, the crowds thin quickly. The route enters chestnut and oak woodland on good gravel paths, climbing steadily through the hamlets of Creda and Roncrio before reaching the ridge above Badolo. The views back toward Bologna and the Po plain open up at several points — savour them; the Apennines have your full attention from here.

Badolo is a tiny community perched on a ridge, reached in the early afternoon if you set out by 8am. The rifugio here is small and books out quickly in peak season; Borgoway confirms your place in advance.

A full day's walking through the Alta Valle del Reno, with more sustained climbing than the opening stage. The route traverses beech and chestnut forest for much of the morning, crossing several ridge lines before descending into the valley of the Savena river.

A key feature of this stage is the archaeological site at Marzabotto — ancient Etruscan city of Kainua, one of the best-preserved examples of Etruscan urban planning in Italy. The site is a short detour off the main route and well worth the extra 30 minutes for history-minded walkers.

The climb out of the valley to Monzuno is the steepest section of the day: a direct ascent of around 300m over 3km. The medieval village reward at the top — narrow lanes, a 12th-century church, and good food — more than compensates.

The longest stage of the Via degli Dei is also the most remote, spending almost the entire day in forest and mountain landscape with barely a hamlet in between. Pack a lunch and fill your water bottle at Monzuno — water sources are limited on the ridge.

The morning brings a long traverse at altitude across the Apennine ridge, with expansive views north toward the Po plain and south toward Tuscany. The path is well-marked but the terrain is genuinely alpine: rocky in sections, with exposed ridgeline walking above the treeline in places.

Bruscoli is a small farming community on the Tuscan side of the watershed, and arriving here marks a psychological turning point — you are now heading unmistakably toward Florence. The agriturismo in the village offers simple, excellent local food; the ribollita and cinghiale are reliably good.

A satisfying stage that feels like a reward after the long effort of day three. The route crosses the Apennine watershed definitively at Passo della Futa (903m), then descends through open moorland and mixed woodland. The terrain is gentler than the previous day, and the walking has a contemplative, rolling quality.

Pietramala sits at 841m in the Mugello valley — a quiet village best known in motorsport circles as the nearest habitation to the Autodromo Internazionale del Mugello. Off-track, it's a perfectly preserved Apennine village with a simple trattoria and a reliable B&B that forms the core of the stage's accommodation.

If you have the energy, a late-afternoon walk along the ridge above the village offers dramatic views of the Mugello basin below and the first sight of the Tuscan hills that will accompany the remaining stages.

One of the shorter stages, designed to allow for a more relaxed afternoon and preparation for the long descent to come. The route climbs back to the high ridge of the Apennines, crossing open grassland and scattered forest at altitude.

The day's destination — the Rifugio at Passo della Futa — sits at the highest point of the entire route at just over 900m. On a clear evening, the sun setting over the Tuscan hills from here is something walkers tend to remember long after the blisters have healed.

Note: this is the coldest accommodation on the route, even in summer. Pack a warm layer for the evening.

The great descent toward Florence begins here. The net elevation loss of 870m over the day gives the legs a different kind of workout — knees and quads bear the brunt, so trekking poles are recommended. The terrain transitions from Apennine moorland to proper Tuscan woodland as you descend, the vegetation growing richer and more varied.

Pratolino is famous for the Villa Demidoff and its 16th-century park, designed for Francesco I de' Medici and once considered one of the most spectacular gardens in Europe. The colossal stone giant 'Appennino' by Giambologna alone is worth the detour. The park is open to the public at weekends.

Accommodation at Pratolino is limited; Borgoway books early to secure your place. This is genuinely the last rural overnight: tomorrow, you walk into Florence.

The final stage. The route descends from Pratolino through the olive groves and villas of the Fiesole hills — terrain so beautiful it served as the backdrop for Boccaccio's Decameron. As you walk, the city appears gradually below: first a distant shimmer on the plain, then the terracotta domes and towers becoming unmistakable.

The approach through Fiesole is one of the most celebrated viewpoints over Florence, and one entirely earned on foot. Most walkers stop here for a coffee and to absorb the view before the final descent. Monte Ceceri, where Leonardo da Vinci's apprentice reportedly made an early flight attempt, is a short detour off the path.

The final kilometres wind down through the San Domenico neighbourhood, past olive groves and Renaissance villas, before joining the city proper. Emerging onto the Piazza del Duomo with a week's worth of Apennine walking in your legs is — by most accounts — worth every kilometre.